A beautiful plate of hamsi in a little restaurant somewhere near Persembe, on the Black Sea. I'd be hard-pressed to say whether dipped in cornmeal and shallow fried or grilled is my favorite Turkish anchovy preparation. This version of the former, called hamsi tava (tava is the name for the pan they're fried in), was pretty near perfect -- crispy, not at all greasy, briny-fresh. That's griddled corn bread in the background. Two stalwarts of Turkish Black Sea cuisine.